Hyaluronic Acid
INCI: HYALURONIC ACID | SODIUM HYALURONATE
Type: Humectant, skin conditioning
Origin: A glycosaminoglycan (GAG) naturally abundant in human skin, connective tissue, and joints. Commercially, it is produced via bacterial fermentation (typically from Streptococcus species), which is the standard for high-purity, sustainable cosmetic-grade HA.
What it does:
Hyaluronic Acid (HA) is a powerful, natural humectant renowned for its extraordinary capacity to hold water – up to 1000 times its own weight. It does not work by adding moisture but by binding and retaining it within the skin’s layers.
- Multi-depth hydration: Achieved through different molecular weights that range from <10 kDa to 1000+ kDa.
- High-molecular-weight HA (>1000 kDa): Forms a breathable, hydrating film on the skin’s surface, providing immediate smoothing and plumping.
- Low-molecular-weight HA (<10 – 1000 kDa): Can penetrate deeper into the epidermis, drawing water into the living skin cells for longer-lasting hydration and support.
- Skin barrier support: By maintaining optimal hydration levels, it helps keep the stratum corneum supple and resilient, reinforcing the skin’s natural barrier function.
Why we use it:
We use a multi-molecular-weight HA (a proprietary 5-weight complex) as the hydration cornerstone in our daily moisturiser. This blend ensures both immediate surface smoothing and deep-skin hydration for a visibly plump, resilient, and better-looking complexion.
As a substance your body produces naturally, it is exceptionally well-tolerated by all skin types.
Hyaluronic Acid (HA) vs. Sodium Hyaluronate (SH)
Hyaluronic Acid (HA) is the free acid form. In its pure state, it is a large polymer chain that is difficult to dissolve in water and is unstable in solution. It is rarely used “as-is” in cosmetic formulas.
Sodium Hyaluronate (SH) is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid. This is the stabilized, commercially usable form. The addition of sodium makes it highly water-soluble, stable, and able to penetrate the skin more effectively.
Think of it like this: Hyaluronic Acid is the raw material, and Sodium Hyaluronate is the refined, stable, and functional ingredient you find in skincare products.
The terms HA and SH are used synonymously in marketing because SH is HA, just in its most usable state.
Practical comparison
| Aspect | Hyaluronic Acid (HA) | Sodium Hyaluronate (SH) |
| Chemical form | Free acid | Sodium salt of HA |
| Stability in formula | Low, degrades faster | High, the standard for stable formulations |
| Solubility | Poor, forms viscous clumps | Excellent, dissolves easily in water |
| Molecular size | Can be very large | Can be very low due to processing, aiding penetration |
| Skin feel | Can be tacky or gelatinous | Lightweight, less tacky, better aesthetic |
| Primary use in cosmetics | Rarely used directly | The nearly universal form used in skincare |