Glossary

Dermatologically tested means the final product formula was evaluated in a clinical safety study involving human participants, conducted under the supervision of a dermatologist. The study followed a controlled protocol (such as a repeat insult patch test) to assess skin compatibility and confirm a very low risk of irritation.

Dermatologically tested is not a legally defined term. Companies are not required to perform it to sell their products. Companies may decide to pay to have it conducted, and then they can make the dermatologically tested claim in their marketing materials.

Clinically tested indicates that the product’s efficacy – its ability to deliver specific, measurable skin benefits – has been evaluated in a controlled study involving human participants. Unlike dermatological testing, which focuses on safety, clinical testing measures quantifiable performance outcomes such as hydration levels, wrinkle depth, elasticity, or brightness, providing evidence that the product works as claimed.

Simple analogy:

• Dermatologically tested = This product is unlikely to harm your skin
• Clinically tested = This product is proven to improve your skin as claimed

Why the confusion?
Many brands conduct a clinical safety study (which is, technically, a type of clinical test for safety). However, a robust clinically tested claim should involve separate studies measuring specific performance outcomes.
Demand more from brands claiming clinically tested products. Often, these claims are not backed by the actual tests, but unfortunately, specific regulations do not protect consumers equally in all parts of the world.

Here’s a quick recap to make things crystal clear:

Term	What it typically means	Common test type
Dermatologically tested Primary focus – safety & compatibility	The finished product has been tested on human skin, under dermatological supervision, to assess its potential to cause irritation, redness, or allergic reactions. It confirms the product is safe and gentle for skin contact.	Repeat Insult Patch Test (RIPT), Human Repeat Insult Patch Test (HRIPT), under a dermatologist’s oversight.
Clinically tested Primary focus – efficacy & performance	The finished product has been tested in a controlled clinical study to measure its effectiveness in delivering specific, claimed benefits (e.g., “increases hydration by 20%”, “reduces the appearance of fine lines”). It confirms the product works as advertised.	Consumer perception studies, instrumental measurements (e.g., corneometry for hydration, visioface for wrinkles), often conducted by a third-party lab or research clinic.

Our approach to testing dermatologically and clinically

We at Lumessentials paid a third party to conduct a dermatological test on sensitive skin. The test confirmed that our products are safe and gentle for all skin types, including sensitive skin. That is why we’re making “dermatologically tested on sensitive skin” claim on our products and website.

On the other hand, we did not conduct clinical trials. Clinical trials that prove a finished formula’s efficacy are scientifically valuable, but they are also extremely expensive and resource-intensive. This creates a significant barrier, often reserving such testing for large corporations with vast budgets. As a small, self-funded brand, we don’t have the capacity to fund such trials at the moment. Instead, we have chosen to invest our capital differently: directly into superior, ethically sourced ingredients and sustainable packaging, not into costly proprietary clinical trials.

We build on a mountain of existing science. Every key active ingredient in our formulas – such as ceramides, vitamin C (SAP), and natural moisturizing factors – has been selected for its extensive, peer-reviewed clinical history. Independent, published research already confirm their safety and measurable benefits for skin health.

Our formulation philosophy is one of intelligent minimalism. We combine these clinically-validated ingredients at effective concentrations in stable, synergistic formulas. We trust the foundational science and focus our innovation on creating responsible products that are as good for the planet as they are for your skin.

Consumer perception studies are surveys. A group of people use a product for a set period of time, then answer questions about their experience. Did their skin feel softer? Did they notice a difference? Do they like the texture?

Consumer perception studies are conducted as follows:

• Participants receive the product and use it as directed, typically for 2–4 weeks.
• Participants then complete questionnaires rating their experience with statements like “My skin felt more hydrated” or “I noticed reduced redness”.
• Results are tabulated as percentages: “82% agreed their skin felt more hydrated”.

What the results actually tell you:
These studies measure subjective experience, i.e. how people felt about the product. They’re valuable for understanding sensory appeal, user satisfaction, and whether people enjoy using the product enough to keep buying it.

However, these results don’t measure physiological changes in the skin. They tell you what people think happened, not what objectively did happen.

Clinical studies use scientific instruments and trained evaluators to measure actual changes in the skin . They’re conducted in controlled environments with standardized protocols:

• Participants follow a strict protocol with regular visits to the testing facility.
• Measurements are taken at baseline (before starting) and at regular intervals using calibrated instruments.
• Common measurements include:
  • Corneometer: Measures skin hydration levels
  • Cutometer: Measures skin firmness and elasticity
  • Visia or similar imaging: Tracks changes in pigmentation, texture, and wrinkles
• Many studies are randomized, controlled, and sometimes blinded to eliminate bias.

What the results actually tell you:
These studies provide objective data about what the product actually does to skin physiology. When a study shows “hydration increased by 49%”, that’s a corneometer reading – it’s not someone’s opinion.

Here’s the thing most brands won’t tell you: Of course your skin felt smoother after applying cream. That’s what cream does.

Bottomline

• Consumer studies tell you: “People enjoyed using this product and thought it worked”.
• Clinical studies tell you: “This product measurably changed skin physiology”.

⚠️ Beware of markeging traps

Any properly formulated moisturizer contains humectants (to attract water) and occlusives (to seal it in). Apply it, and your skin immediately feels softer and smoother. That’s not proof of efficacy – it’s proof of physics.

When a brand boasts “95% of users felt smoother skin after application”, they’re essentially saying “95% of users experienced the intended function of a moisturizer”. It’s like running a perception study on umbrellas and announcing “92% of participants stayed dry in the rain”. Duh. That’s what it’s designed to do.

The marketing version sounds impressive. The honest version asks: What else happened? Did it actually strengthen your barrier over time? Did measurable hydration persist hours later?
If a brand leads with immediate sensory claims and nothing else, ask yourself what they’re not telling you.

The European Union has one of the world’s strictest cosmetic safety regulations. The EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 is a comprehensive law that governs every aspect of a cosmetic product’s lifecycle to ensure consumer safety. Every product sold in the EU must comply with this Regulation. Here are a few key aspects that are enforced through this Regulation:

• Every product must have a Product Information File (PIF) and a Safety Assessment Report, signed by a qualified expert, proving it is safe under normal use.
• It mandates full ingredient disclosure via the INCI system on labels and bans over 1300 potentially harmful substances (the “Annex II” prohibited list).
• Any claim made (e.g., “for sensitive skin”) must be backed by verifiable evidence, preventing misleading marketing.
• All products must be manufactured under Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP) and notified to the EU’s Cosmetic Products Notification Portal (CPNP) before being placed on the market.
• It fully bans testing finished cosmetic products and cosmetic ingredients on animals within the EU.

The INCI list (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) is the standardized, universal system for naming every ingredient in a cosmetic product. It is your legal, unfiltered ingredient roadmap, designed for clarity and consistency across global markets.

Ingredients on the INCI list are listed in descending order of concentration. The ingredient present at the highest percentage is listed first. Ingredients at 1% or less can be listed in any order after that threshold.

What’s in a name?

• Botanical ingredients are listed by their Latin genus and species names (e.g., Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil) to ensure precise botanical identification worldwide.
• Synthesized/chemical ingredients are listed using standardized English scientific names (e.g., Glycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate).
• Colorants are listed by their CI (Colour Index) numbers (e.g., CI 77491 for Iron Oxides).

Should I read the INCI list?

Absolutely. Reading the INCI list empowers you to know exactly what ingredients you are applying to your skin. The list helps you check if there are any ingredeints you’d like to avoid, or see if the product has the potential to be as effective as the marketing says it is. Make it into a habit to read the list before each and every purchase.

INCI list limitations

As useful as the INCI lists are, they do have their limitations. Several points will remain unknown unless the brand specifically mentions them. From the INCI list, you cannot know:

• The source of the ingredients (natural, naturally-derived, synthetic; of animal origin or vegan, etc.)
• The effectiveness of the actives on the list. A high % of an active doesn’t mean it’s going to be as effective as they claim. The stability of the formula, the delivery system, the pH of the formula all play a crucial role in whether the product is effective.
• The skin feel and scent of the product.
• The exact concentration of the plant extract and their quality. The INCI list doesn’t tell you what extraction principle was used and what active compounds are present in the mixture of that plant extract.

The claim natural is largely unregulated at the EU legislative level. Unlike the term organic, which is protected for food (EC 834/2007) and referenced in private cosmetic standards, the term natural for cosmetics has no legal definition under the Regulation EC 1223/2009. This gap is filled by private standards (COSMOS, Natrue) and the technical guidelines of ISO 16128.

Term	Description
Natural ingredient	Derived directly from plants, minerals, or animals (and sometimes microbiological sources) with minimal processing. Processing is typically physical (e.g., pressing, distillation, drying) rather than chemical alteration. Examples: Jojoba oil (cold-pressed from seeds), shea butter (extracted from nuts), zinc oxide (mineral), rosewater (steam distillation).
Synthetic ingredient	Human-made through chemical synthesis in a laboratory. Synthetic ingredients can be original molecules or copies of those found in nature. Examples: Parabens (preservatives), silicones (like dimethicone for texture), synthetic fragrances, petroleum-derived oils.
Naturally-derived ingredient	These ingredients belong to a hybrid category. They start with a natural source (e.g., coconut oil) but are chemically modified (e.g., to create sodium lauryl sulfate) to enhance functionality. Examples include Squalane (hydrogenated), Cetearyl Olivate, Ethyl Olivate, hydrogenated castor oil. They start with a natural raw material but undergo a defined chemical process (hydrogenation, esterification). They are permitted and labeled as “Derived from Natural Origin” under COSMOS certificate.
Naturally-identical ingredient	This is a crucial middle category. These are substances chemically identical to those found in nature but produced synthetically for purity, sustainability, or ethical reasons (for example, avoiding animal sourcing). In many EU standards, they are treated as “natural” for calculation purposes under ISO 16128. ISO 16128 standard provides the calculation basis for the “Natural Origin Index”. Under its guidelines, ingredients produced by fermentation (Hyaluronic Acid, Propanediol) or derived from plant biomass via defined chemical steps (Sorbitol, Betaine) are assigned a high percentage of natural origin.

A major misconception is that a “natural ingredient equals safe ingredient”. This is not true. Many plant extracts are natural but poisonous, hence harmful. Many natural ingredients are common allergens (for example, essential oils or botanical extracts). Natural doesn’t equal better, so don’t let dishonest marketing trick you into believeing so.

💡 There is no official regulation nor harmonized criteria on the definitions of “natural” and “organic” for cosmetics in the EU.

The term “organic” is protected for food (EC 834/2007) in the EU and is referenced in private cosmetic standards. However, the term “natural” for cosmetics has no legal definition under the Regulation EC 1223/2009. This gap is filled by private standards (COSMOS, Natrue) and the technical guidelines of ISO 16128.

Natural

An ingredient of botanical, mineral, animal, or microbiological origin that has been obtained with minimal processing (e.g., physical processes like pressing, distillation, filtration). There is no legal definition for the term “natural” in cosmetic regulations in the EU. Its use on packaging is largely unregulated under the main EU Cosmetics Regulation.

Governing framework relies largely on private standards and technical guidelines:

• ISO 16128: Provides technical definitions and guidelines for calculating a “Natural Origin Index”, but it is a voluntary standard for industry, not a consumer label.
• Private standards (COSMOS, Natrue): These provide the strictest operational definitions for what can be called natural in certified products.

Organic

Refers primarily to the agricultural origin and cultivation process of an ingredient. It means the plants were grown without synthetic pesticides, herbicides, GMOs, and according to specific soil management practices.

Legal status in the EU:

• For food: Strictly regulated by EU Council Regulation (EC) No 834/2007. The use of the term and the EU organic logo is legally protected.
• For cosmetics: There is no EU-wide legal regulation for the term organic in cosmetics. It exists in a regulatory gap.

🗓️ Expiration date is the deadline for unopened products. It’s the date until which the product is guaranteed to be safe and effective when stored properly, based on stability testing. It applies to products with a lifespan of less than 30 months. You’ll see it marked explicitly on the product packaging.

🫙 PAO (Period After Opening) is the timer for opened products. It’s the number of months (e.g., 12M) a product remains safe and stable after you first open it, indicated by the open jar symbol on the packaging. This is crucial because exposure to air, light, and bacteria can degrade ingredients over time.

📌 Always store products in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to help them last as long as intended.

In full compliance with the EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, every Lumessentials product is backed by a mandatory Product Safety Report. This includes comprehensive stability and preservative efficacy testing, and a final safety approval signed by a qualified safety assessor.