Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
INCI: SODIUM HYALURONATE CROSSPOLYMER
Type: Film-forming humectant, skin conditioning
Origin: A modified form of Sodium Hyaluronate where the hyaluronic acid chains are chemically cross-linked to create a larger, three-dimensional network or mesh.
What it does:
This is an advanced, engineered derivative of hyaluronic acid designed for enhanced performance and unique sensory properties. Its primary functions are distinct from standard sodium hyaluronate:
- Long-lasting, resilient hydration: The cross-linked polymer forms an elastic, breathable film on the skin’s surface that is more resistant to being washed or rubbed off. This creates a sustained reservoir of hydration that releases moisture over time.
- Immediate plumping: Provides an exceptional, immediate filling effect.
- Texture modification: Imparts a unique, silky feel to formulas and can help stabilize emulsions.
Why we use it:
We include it as part of our 5-weight hyaluronic acid complex in our daily moisturiser. It is responsible for delivering an immediate smooth, plumped feel and locking in a layer of lasting moisture that complements the work of the other penetrating HA molecules.
The cross-linking creates a much larger molecular structure that remains on the skin’s surface, acting as a sophisticated “moisture magnet” rather than a penetrative hydrator. It provides long-lasting surface hydration and film-forming benefits.
Hyaluronic Acid (HA) vs. Sodium Hyaluronate (SH)
Hyaluronic Acid (HA) is the free acid form. In its pure state, it is a large polymer chain that is difficult to dissolve in water and is unstable in solution. It is rarely used “as-is” in cosmetic formulas.
Sodium Hyaluronate (SH) is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid. This is the stabilized, commercially usable form. The addition of sodium makes it highly water-soluble, stable, and able to penetrate the skin more effectively.
Think of it like this: Hyaluronic Acid is the raw material, and Sodium Hyaluronate is the refined, stable, and functional ingredient you find in skincare products.
The terms HA and SH are used synonymously in marketing because SH is HA, just in its most usable state.
Practical comparison
| Aspect | Hyaluronic Acid (HA) | Sodium Hyaluronate (SH) |
| Chemical form | Free acid | Sodium salt of HA |
| Stability in formula | Low, degrades faster | High, the standard for stable formulations |
| Solubility | Poor, forms viscous clumps | Excellent, dissolves easily in water |
| Molecular size | Can be very large | Can be very low due to processing, aiding penetration |
| Skin feel | Can be tacky or gelatinous | Lightweight, less tacky, better aesthetic |
| Primary use in cosmetics | Rarely used directly | The nearly universal form used in skincare |