Urea

INCI: UREA
Type: Humectant, keratolytic agent, skin-identical moisturizing factor
Origin: A naturally occurring compound found in human skin and bodily fluids. Cosmetic-grade urea is produced synthetically to be bio-identical to the natural form.

What it does:

Urea is a powerhouse multifunctional active and one of the most important components of the skin’s natural moisturizing factors (NMFs). Its primary functions are concentration-dependent:

1. Superior humectant: At lower concentrations, urea is an exceptional water-binding agent, significantly increasing the skin’s moisture content and reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
2. Gentle keratolytic: At concentrations above 5-10%, urea helps break down and dissolve the “glue” (desmosomes) holding dead skin cells together, promoting gentle exfoliation of rough, flaky texture.
3. Barrier support: Helps strengthen the skin’s protective barrier by supporting lipid synthesis and improving overall barrier function.
4. Anti-puritic and soothing: Has mild anti-itch and soothing properties, making it valuable for dry, irritated, or compromised skin.

Why we use it:

It’s included in the NMF complex in our daily moisturiser to deliver exceptional hydrating and barrier-repairing benefits without over-exfoliating. It helps restore the skin’s natural moisture balance, improves resilience, and creates a smooth, comfortable canvas.

It is not a foreign active but a substance your skin naturally produces and recognizes. It works in synergy with other NMF components (amino acids, sodium PCA, lactic acid) to create a complete, balanced moisturizing system.