
Urea
INCI: UREA
Type: Humectant, keratolytic agent, skin-identical moisturizing factor
Origin: A naturally occurring compound found in human skin and bodily fluids. Cosmetic-grade urea is produced synthetically to be bio-identical to the natural form.
What it does
Urea is a powerhouse multifunctional active and one of the most important components of the skin's natural moisturizing factors (NMFs). Its primary functions are concentration-dependent:
- Superior humectant: At lower concentrations, urea is an exceptional water-binding agent, significantly increasing the skin's moisture content and reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL)
- Gentle keratolytic: At concentrations above 5-10%, urea helps break down and dissolve the "glue" (desmosomes) holding dead skin cells together, promoting gentle exfoliation of rough, flaky texture
- Barrier support: Helps strengthen the skin's protective barrier by supporting lipid synthesis and improving overall barrier function
- Anti-puritic and soothing: Has mild anti-itch and soothing properties, making it valuable for dry, irritated, or compromised skin.
Why we use it
It's included in the NMF complex in our daily moisturiser to deliver exceptional hydrating and barrier-repairing benefits without over-exfoliating. It helps restore the skin's natural moisture balance, improves resilience, and creates a smooth, comfortable canvas. It is not a foreign active but a substance your skin naturally produces and recognizes. It works in synergy with other NMF components (amino acids, sodium PCA, lactic acid) to create a complete, balanced moisturizing system.