Why "preservative-free" claim is a huge red flag
There's a cosmetic claim that has been weaponised in the beauty industry in many countries around the world. It's designed to make you feel virtuous, safe, and "clean". That claim is "preservative-free". And it's one of the most dangerous greenwashing tactics in modern skincare. Luckily, the EU cosmetic regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 is crystal clear on cosmetic product safety. If a cosmetic product contains water, it needs preservatives. Microbes love water, so without a preservation system, you're not applying skincare on your face, you're applying a petri dish.
EU regulation
All cosmetics placed on the market must be safe in accordance with Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009. A core issue regarding safety is adequate preservation or the choice of a suitable preservation system. Exempt from this are so-called microbiologically low-risk products. These include, for example, water-free products, products with extreme pH values, or cosmetics with a very high solvent content. Typically, adding preservatives to such products is not necessary.
Most of what you apply onto your face daily is lotions, serums, creams. They are mostly water. Cosmetics with high water content are at risk of being contaminated by microorganisms that can spoil the product or endanger the user, with Staphylococcus aureus and Pseudomonas aeruginosa among the frequent offenders. Pseudomonas in particular loves a wet cosmetic, and on compromised or eczema-prone skin, or near the eyes, a contaminated product is a genuine infection route. That is why for anything that contains water, preservatives are not optional. They are a safety requirement.
Marketing traps
Let's be precise about what "preservative-free" actually means in practice. If a water-containing product has passed a preservative efficacy challenge test, which is required to demonstrate safety, something in it is killing microorganisms. There is no third possibility.
A brand that markets a preserved aqueous formula as "preservative-free" is not describing biology. They're using multifunctional ingredients like caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, ethylhexylglycerin, or glyceryl caprylate as "preservatives". These ingredients have genuine antimicrobial activity and may be used as preservative boosters, but they are not officially classified as preservatives.
So if the product that contains water passes the preservative efficacy challenge test, it is preserved. The label just doesn't say so and is misleading.
A brand selling a genuinely unpreserved aqueous product that hasn't passed a challenge test is selling something unsafe and potentially harmful. This is very unlikely to happen in the EU, where every product on the market must pass the preservative efficacy challenge test.
Preservatives examples
Below you find preservatives with decades of safe use and robust safety data. Some of them are also COSMOS-approved. The COSMOS standard is one of the most rigorous certification schemes for organic and natural cosmetics. COSMOS obviously has approved preservatives on their list, because natural water-based products need protection too.
| INCI | Description |
|---|---|
| Glyceryl Caprylate, Propanediol, Benzoic Acid, Sorbic Acid | Broad-spectrum, gentle combination of organic acids with natural-derived emollients. COSMOS-approved. |
| Phenoxyethanol | One of the most widely used preservatives globally. Effective against bacteria, yeast, and mold. Used at concentrations up to 1% in the EU. Has been in use since the 1970s and has an extensive safety record. |
| Sodium Benzoate, Benzyl Alcohol, Potassium Sorbate | A broad-spectrum preservative system approved by COSMOS. |
| Sodium Benzoate | A food-grade preservative used in cosmetics for decades. Effective against yeast and mold, often combined with potassium sorbate for broad-spectrum protection. Naturally occurring in many fruits. |
| Potassium Sorbate | The potassium salt of sorbic acid. Effective against fungi and yeasts. Used in food preservation for decades and in cosmetics for just as long. pH-dependent activity, best below pH 5.5. |
| Dehydroacetic Acid (DHA) | A synthetic preservative effective against bacteria, yeast, and mold. Used since the 1970s. Often combined with benzyl alcohol for broad-spectrum protection. |
Why this matters for your skin
A 2025 study of "preservative-free" cosmetics sold online found that 25% failed preservative challenge tests. Two batches didn't achieve the required bacterial reduction rate. Another two batches experienced microbial growth during testing.
The conclusion was stark: "Some online-sold preservative-free cosmetics have insufficient preservation efficacy and pose a certain risk of microbial contamination".
This is what "preservative-free" really means: a higher risk of contamination, infection, and product spoilage. We should be protected from this dangerous preservative-free claim in the EU, but keep your eyes open whenever you buy.
How we guarantee your safety
We use a robust preservative system in our water-based products – daily moisturizer and overnight repair cream. Both products passed the preservative efficacy challenge test with flying colours 😎
Our oil-based gel cleanser is not a water-based product, so it doesn't require a preservative system.
Preservatives are the reason our moisturizers are safe to use for the months it takes to finish the tube.